jtrent238 test blog: What to Cook This Weekend

September 16, 2022

Melina Hammer for The New York Times

What to Cook This Weekend

By Sam Sifton

Good morning. I had a remarkable heirloom tomato pizza the other day, at Lucia of Avenue X in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. Sal Carlino, the chef and owner, bakes a white pie and then shingles slices of raw tomato over the top. When you order a slice, he puts it in the oven to reheat, but only briefly, so that the tomato doesn't really cook. It's like bruschetta pizza. It's really cool.

Want to make a version of that this weekend? I did recently, using a hack of this recipe for a cheeses pizza (above) from Roberta's, also in Brooklyn. (For the base, I omitted Taleggio and black pepper, increased the Parmesan and grated two cloves of garlic over the top.) When the pie was leopard-spotted and finished, I arranged thick slices of perfect tomatoes over the top, sprinkled on some flaky salt and served the thing immediately. It was like bruschetta pizza. It was really cool.

Pizza innovation is everywhere, it seems. In the "Where to Eat: New York City" newsletter the other day, my colleague Nikita Richardson wrote about a life-changing clam pie she had at Bellucci's Pizzeria in Astoria, Queens. You need to order it a couple of days in advance. I might try to make a version at home, in place of the clam-chowder pizza I generally make.

You could make pizza with a salad on top. Or how about vegan pizza? Or pizza with bacon and egg?

Heading in other directions entirely, you might try a caramelized onion galette or these delicious Indian-ish nachos with Cheddar, black beans and chutney. I like the idea of seitan piccata, too.

Orange-cardamom pancakes for breakfast, please, if only as fuel for some project cooking later in the day. Make Japanese curry bricks for use later in the week, or sandwich bread, or grainy mustard.

And for Sunday dinner, you could get in some practice for the coming Jewish High Holy Days, as with this brisket in sweet-and-sour sauce. You don't want to be making that for the very first time eight hours before your in-laws arrive. Or how about salmon with potatoes and horseradish tarragon sauce?

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Now, it has nothing to do with moules frites or tempered chocolate, but I think you ought to read Hilton Als on the new David Bowie documentary, in The New Yorker. Also, A.O. Scott on the same film, in The Times.

I've been enjoying the chill and darkness of "Entrapped" on Netflix.

For The Walrus, Matthew Braga considered the question "How Do You Make the Perfect Toy?"

Finally, Lindsay Zoladz turned me on to new music from Phoenix, "Tonight," featuring Ezra Koenig. As she noted in The Times, it's very 2009 and welcome for that. Play it loud, and I'll see you on Sunday.

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