Saturday, August 19, 2023

Canada Letter: From candy to cannabis and back again

A plot twist in the story of Smiths Falls, Ontario.

Few buildings exemplify a town's ups and downs as much the sprawling brown-brick factory in Smiths Falls, Ontario, that began life in the 1960s as the home of Hershey Canada.

The Canopy Growth plant in Smiths Falls, Ontario, during its glory days.Dave Chan for The New York Times

Twice the town has risen with the fortunes of the building's successive owners: Hershey, and then a prominent cannabis grower. And twice it has been let down by them. This week, the town received a third shot at economic redemption when Hershey, in a surprising move, said it was returning.

The building's continuing drama has also meant that Smiths Falls has lured me out repeatedly for various reasons, personal and journalistic, over the years.

Being a parent prompted my first visit; few families in Eastern Ontario escaped at least one trip to the chocolate factory. Our now-adult sons had scant interest in what was its main attraction for me: the self-guided tour that allowed visitors to peer down from elevated windows at pristine white conveyor belts moving battalions of peanut butter cups and chocolate bars.

They were there for the "Chocolate Shoppe." Reached through a somewhat faded, theme-park-style entrance, it sold about $4 million of broken candy, bulk bars and confectionary misfits to an astounding 400,000 or so visitors each year. For comparison, before it closed for renovations, about 355,000 people toured Parliament's Centre Block annually.

The water tower in Smiths Falls proclaimed the town to be the "chocolate capital of Ontario." At its peak, the plant employed about 800 people in a community that currently has a population of just over 9,000.

ADVERTISEMENT

Ad

But in 2007, like several American-owned branch plants in Smiths Falls, the Hershey plant became a casualty of continental free trade. Hershey wound down production, moving most of it to Mexico. Combined with other closings, the town lost 1,700 jobs within a year.

Unlike most abandoned factories, however, the Hershey plant escaped demolition. And 10 years ago it became the focus of Smiths Falls's next great boom, one built around legal cannabis production, which, at that time, meant medical marijuana.

There were a small number of licensed growers, and Tweed, Canopy Growth's original corporate name, was the most flamboyant and aspirational of them all. It had bought the factory for 7 million Canadian dollars from its two co-founders, a pair who had earlier been prominent in Canada's dot-com boom and bust.

When I went out there for an article in 2014, the oldest part of the plant was a wreck. Clearly home to many animals, its had a roof that was sagging and leaking. But over in what had been a candy bar warehouse, an array of special growing rooms was fitted with blinding grow lights and deafening industrial-size dehumidifiers together nurturing 50,000 marijuana plants.

Medical marijuana wasn't a road to riches, but Canopy, despite losing almost as much money as it took in through sales, was ready to double down when the industry's big prize opened: the recreational cannabis market. The roof was replaced and the raccoons evicted from the oldest part of the factory. It gained a handsomely designed visitor center, museum, cafe and gift shop offering clothing and marijuana knickknacks. The self-guided tours returned, and eventually there was a small chocolate assembly line making cannabis edibles.

One of Canopy's lawyers had a bold prediction of the fortune awaiting the company.

"It's like Seagram's back when Prohibition was in place and just about to end," said Deborah Weinstein, who handled Canopy's move to the Toronto Stock Exchange. "But it's more than that. This has never been an industry."

The plant shortly after it was acquired by Canopy.Dave Chan for The New York Times

At first it seemed like a dream come true, both for Canopy's investors and for Smiths Falls. Canopy's soaring stock price vaulted it into the ranks of one of Canada's most valuable companies. And it employed 1,800 people in the town.

ADVERTISEMENT

Ad

The good times didn't last. Despite the opening of the market to cannabis edibles and beverages, profits proved elusive for everyone, and Canopy's shares have fallen by 80 percent since the beginning of the year. Some analysts question the company's future unless it can sell more stock — a tall order. Layoffs have brought the work force in Smiths Falls down to about 450 people.

Since April, Canopy has sold seven of its buildings across the country, the latest being the plant at 1 Hershey Drive in Smiths Falls. Hershey (which did not directly sell the building to Canopy's founders) said this week that it would pay 59 million Canadian dollars in cash.

The remaining Canopy workers will move to a building across the street that Canopy now uses for shipping and a beverage canning line.

What Hershey plans to do is unclear.

In an email, Todd Scott, a spokesman, said that the purchase was "another step in our continuing investment in our supply chain network to enable our leading snacking powerhouse vision" and that whatever occurs, it would involve candy, mint and gum confectionary.

ADVERTISEMENT

Ad

He added that it was premature to discuss any specifics. And he did not explain why the company decided to return to Smiths Falls.

It remains to be seen whether the Candy Shoppe will rise again to challenge Parliament as a tourist attraction.

Trans Canada

Wildfire viewed from Kelowna, British Columbia, earlier in the week.Darren Hull/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Finding The Times

Those of you who use Facebook have probably noticed that The Times and all other news outlets have been blocked in Canada by its parent company because of a new law that will require it to compensate Canadian news organizations.

You can still read The Times by going to nytimes.com or downloading one of our apps.

This and all other Times newsletters are available at nytimes.com/newsletters.

And Times podcasts can be downloaded from several platforms, The Times's audio app and at nytimes.com/podcasts.

A native of Windsor, Ontario, Ian Austen was educated in Toronto, lives in Ottawa and has reported about Canada for The New York Times for two decades.

How are we doing?
We're eager to have your thoughts about this newsletter and events in Canada in general. Please send them to nytcanada@nytimes.com.

Like this email?
Forward it to your friends, and let them know they can sign up here.

Need help? Review our newsletter help page or contact us for assistance.

You received this email because you signed up for Canada Letter from The New York Times.

To stop receiving Canada Letter, unsubscribe. To opt out of other promotional emails from The Times, including those regarding The Athletic, manage your email settings. To opt out of updates and offers sent from The Athletic, submit a request.

Subscribe to The Times

Connect with us on:

facebooktwitterinstagram

Change Your EmailPrivacy PolicyContact UsCalifornia Notices

LiveIntent LogoAdChoices Logo

The New York Times Company. 620 Eighth Avenue New York, NY 10018

No comments:

Post a Comment