Thursday, November 9, 2023

The Veggie: Vegetable stock is a go!

The backbone of a rich vegetarian Thanksgiving (read: Sidesgiving)? A flavorful vegetable stock.

Sound the vegetable stock alarm!

In July, the day before I went on a weeklong vacation to bask in the 90-degree heat of a beach, I took my first Thanksgiving meeting. Like the rest of the New York Times Cooking family, I've been thinking about stuffing and gravy and all manner of scalloped and mashed and roasted potatoes since high summer, back when the time to plan for the holiday felt like an undepletable resource.

We're now exactly two weeks out from the big day, and the game-planning window has narrowed to a transom. But if it still feels too early to begin chipping away at your Thanksgiving feast, might I offer a counterargument? Now is precisely the time to make vegetable stock.

A flavorful vegetable stock is the backbone of a rich vegetarian Thanksgiving (read: Sidesgiving). You'll use it across all sorts of dishes: vegan mushroom gravy and puréed soups (if you're a soup course kind of family), braised greens and green bean casserole and, of course, stuffing.

You don't need every vegetable in the produce aisle for a robust stock. Onions, garlic and mushrooms go a long way, as does tomato paste, in Ali Slagle's new rendition. Still, you can use this as an opportunity to clean out the crisper as you make space for the big Thanksgiving grocery haul that lies ahead. To Ali's simple ratio of alliums and mushrooms, you can add:

  • Up to four cups of chopped vegetables, including but not limited to leeks, scallions, celery, celery root, tomatoes, fennel, parsnips, corn and carrots — and their stems, leaves and roots — but skip brassicas and squashes
  • Umami boosters like soy sauce, kombu, dried mushrooms, Parmesan rinds, vegetable bouillon and nutritional yeast
  • Herbs and spices like fresh thyme, parsley or sage; dried or fresh bay leaves; coriander or fennel seeds; peppercorns; ginger; and fresh or dried chiles

Once you've simmered and cooled your stock, divide it among a few of your preferred freezer-safe containers or zip-top bags for easy thawing.

But you don't have to wait until Thanksgiving to cook with your liquid gold. Use it in Alexa Weibel's 30-minute carrot risotto with chile crisp, a luxurious, autumnal meal that is so much easier than "risotto" ever implies. Or, you know, make something soupy. With so much hearty eating in the weeks ahead, I can't resist the pull of the light, warm and restorative properties of Yewande Komolafe's brothy Thai curry with silken tofu and herbs.

One More Thing!

Let's keep these good Thanksgiving vibes going, shall we? It's Recipe Matchmaker time, holiday edition. Send a brief — emphasis on brief! — email to theveggie@nytimes.com with your hyper-specific vegetarian Thanksgiving recipe requests or questions, and please use the subject line "Thanksgiving Recipe Matchmaker."

I'll feature a few of them in next week's newsletter. Thanks for reading!

Email us at theveggie@nytimes.com. Newsletters will be archived here. Reach out to my colleagues at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you have questions about your account.

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