Thursday, March 7, 2024

The Veggie: It’s date night

Dates add their rich, molasses-y flavor to roasted fennel and farro salad and easy blackened broccoli.
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The Veggie

March 7, 2024

Two beige ceramic bowls hold roast fennel and farro salad with dates, green olives and herbs.
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

It's date night

On a recent night in the East Village of Manhattan, the Avenue A sidewalk brimmed with chattering bargoers as Tupac's "California Love" blared from an indeterminable source. A marquee loomed above, and through a veil of vape and cigarette exhaust, its two words beckoned: "DATE SHAKE."

My companions and I piled into Superiority Burger at the promise of cooling, caramel creaminess. But it was later than any of us realized, and they were no longer serving the beloved treat.

My craving for dates thus remains unsatisfied, so to our trove of recipes I look. I love when dates are blended into shakes, certainly, but also when they're whirled into cilantro and mango chutneys, rolled into sticky buns, chopped into savory rice dishes and, most simply — but maybe most deliciously — stuffed.

In Melissa Clark's recipe for roasted fennel and farro salad (above), dates add a bit of heft, alongside briny olives and feta, to upgrade the dish from side to light dinner. Sohla El-Waylly tops blackened florets of broccoli with a sizzled garnish of torn dates and roughly chopped nuts for a striking array of textures and flavors. Eaten with some rice or even some simply prepared tofu, it makes for an enviable desk lunch.

A cornerstone of many Middle Eastern and North African cuisines, dates imbue savory and sweet dishes alike with their rich, molasses-y flavor — and they're a staple on fast-breaking tables during Ramadan (which starts next week). Nasim Alikhani, the owner of Sofreh, a restaurant in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, layers a mixture of diced dates and caramelized onions with rice and lentils for her version of the fragrant Persian dish adas polo.

It's luxurious in taste and appearance, but not in effort or cost, as it is made almost entirely of pantry staples. "A dollop of yogurt and, occasionally, a fried egg, are all it needs to make a complete meal," writes Melissa, who adapted the recipe from Nasim.

So that's dates for lunch and dates for dinner. But let's not stop there. I'd gladly pop a few of Genevieve Ko's granola bites, bonded by chewy dates, for breakfast or an after-gym snack. And for dessert, the options are endless. Like a moth to the glow of a date shake sign, I'm drawn to Amy Chaplin's date-sweetened vegan brownies and Sarah DiGregorio's sticky toffee pudding, which you can make in either an oven or a slow cooker.

An oval white platter holds broccoli with sizzled nuts and dates.
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Broccoli With Sizzled Nuts and Dates

View this recipe.

A big circular plate holds adas polo ba khorma (Persian lentil rice with dates) topped with yogurt and scattered with herbs.
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Adas Polo ba Khorma (Persian Lentil Rice With Dates)

View this recipe.

Vegan brownies with tahini and halvah are topped with nuts and sesame seeds and cut into neat, small rectangles.
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Vegan Brownies With Tahini and Halvah

View this recipe.

One More Thing!

Reading: Hat tip to my fellow newsletter writer Nikita Richardson for putting me on to Slate's "24 Hours of Highly Subjective Wisdom," perfect dinner party fodder. I encourage you to debate whether 7 p.m. is the best time to dump someone. (6 p.m., however, is indisputably martini time.)

Listening: I started collecting records this year, and Denise Lu's case against streaming music, which she made last year for The New York Times Magazine, resonates: "Having my own library means I can distinctly remember the context of every find, and that makes my intimacy with the songs I care about … feel especially rich." This week, I've spinning The Trammps' 1976 album "Disco Inferno."

Watching: Ahead of the Oscars on Sunday, I'm bingeing videos from The Times's "Anatomy of a Scene" series for all 10 best picture nominees.

Thanks for reading, and see you next week!

Email us at theveggie@nytimes.com. Newsletters will be archived here. Reach out to my colleagues at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you have questions about your account.

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