Hello, Open Thread. Happy Glicked weekend. While I am not sure that "Gladiator II" will have much effect on fashion, "Wicked" has already been ubiquitous this year, thanks to the no-holds-barred method dressing of its two stars: Cynthia Erivo has worn Elphaba green, and Ariana Grande has played her part in Glinda pink in pretty much all of their public appearances since the Olympics. This means that no matter the brand — Louis Vuitton, Thom Browne, Giambattista Valli, Erdem or Versace — what you notice are the colors, and what you think about are the characters. If you want proof that this sort of method dressing (a term coined by Law Roach, the image architect who works with Zendaya and who started it all) is the future of movie marketing, "Wicked" is it. And not just on the red carpet. Like "Barbie," another film that used premieres as a tool for its own ends (rather than simply advancing those of its stars and the brands they represent), "Wicked" has flooded the market with fashion tie-ups. Almost every day now, I get an email promoting "Wicked"-inspired pieces from companies as disparate as Forever 21, Roots and Aspinal of London. Whether this will drive people to theaters is not entirely clear — between "Barbie" and "Challengers," I think we are already inured to this approach — but according to Alison Bringé, the chief marketing officer of Launchmetrics, the proliferation of stuff is about creating what she calls "fandemonium" around a property and transforming it from a movie into a "cultlike moment." Apropos of that, and given the political tenor of the times and the fact that "Wicked" is essentially an antifascist fairy tale, I wouldn't be surprised if the film became a form of cultural self-care and the colors that identify it a subtly partisan rallying cry rather than simply a marketing tool. We'll see if that actually happens. But what is certain is that I haven't thought this much about pink and green since "The Official Preppy Handbook" was published in 1980. In other news, Antoine Arnault, the eldest son of the LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and the head of image and environment for the group, has become the majority owner of the French soccer club Paris F.C. (Red Bull is the other partner.) This is a family investment rather than an LVMH one, but it is yet another step in the increasing embrace of fashion and sports. LVMH, you may remember, underwrote the Paris Olympics and recently signed a 10-year deal to sponsor Formula One. Anyway, back in July, during a New York Times fashion and sports event in Paris, I interviewed Mr. Arnault about the Olympics initiative and asked him whether LVMH would ever buy a sports team. He said no, because it takes different skills, but what better way to learn than by practicing on the sidelines? Just sayin'. Think about that, and then consider the legacy of Adele and all of her long black dresses as she brings her Las Vegas residency to a close. (Hint: If you are looking for some ideas for holiday dressing, this is a great place to start.) And, speaking of Vegas, check out the crazy fashion scene at ComplexCon. Finally, discover the women whose merch is their message. And have a good, safe weekend. I hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving. I, for one, am grateful for all of you and the time and attention you give this newsletter, and the responses you send.
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Your Style Questions, AnsweredEvery week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader's fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or X. Questions are edited and condensed.
I have been told that in professional contexts, the goal should be to dress conservatively and unobtrusively so your clothes are the least interesting thing about you and the focus remains on your work. I don't disagree with this statement, but I don't want to look sloppy or bland. How can I dress in a manner that places style in the background but doesn't ignore it entirely? — Maria, BostonThis is a misinterpretation of the situation, a sort of inane inverse of the adage that children should be seen and not heard. It suggests that adults should be heard but not seen, and in an increasingly visual world, that idea is a nonstarter. The issue is not that you don't want to be noticed for your clothes — it's that you don't want to be noticed for the wrong thing about your clothes. You don't want your clothes to be so loud or crazy or otherwise distracting that they become the only thing people remember or talk about after an encounter. You do, however, want your clothes to help you be memorable. As much as they shouldn't suck up all of the attention from those around you, they shouldn't be so boring that you fade into the background, or so banal that they make you seem thoughtless and uncreative. That actually makes your job harder. It's difficult to make a point, or be convincing, or get people to buy your ideas, if they confuse you with the wallpaper. Or a sofa. Instead, the goal should be to get your clothes to convey a vibe: confident, pulled together, unique, professional. The focus should be on style, not fashion. That may seem semantic, but it's not. Style is about consistency and commitment to a concept; fashion is about constant change. Style means dress that is mostly unidentifiable, that doesn't have logos all over it or seem immediately associated with a specific decade. It doesn't have to be fancy, but it does have to be considered. Think, for example, of Steve Jobs and his Issey Miyake mock turtlenecks and jeans, or of Katharine Hepburn and her men's wear tweeds. Both managed to suggest that their minds were on matters other than dress specifically by dressing the same way every day — and look great while doing so. That is why the two have stood the test of time as sartorial reference points. Their clothes said something about their broader value systems. How you get to that point — how you develop a clear personal style — reminds me of something I read recently about dance: essentially, that it is the art of making the effortful look easy. What that means for you may seem hard to figure out, but the good news is, you only have to do it once. I asked Victoria Beckham — who had her own period of being remembered for the wrong thing (those purple wedding outfits!) and has since matured into an easy style of loose trousers, button-up shirts and jackets — what she would suggest. "Tailoring," she said. "It's the easiest way to feel confident." To that I would add an actual tailor. The right 'fit is unquestionably a secret of great style, since it stops you from fiddling with your clothes — tugging on hemlines, adjusting waistlines, pulling at sleeves — and thus adds an element of comfort, which is also critical. And don't forget that materials and preparation (ironing!) matter. After all, if attention to detail, as well as big-picture thinking, is part of the job, it also has to be part of the look.
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Friday, November 22, 2024
Open Thread: Wicked, Yves Saint Laurent
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