Wednesday, January 17, 2024

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

Embroidered ballet flats, a cafe and farm shop in Marrakesh — and more.
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The T List

January 17, 2024

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

EAT HERE

In Marrakesh, an Expanding Cafe With Roots at a Local Farm

A view into a bakery and cafe. Loaves and jars line the right wall, with an espresso machine on the left. A basket of leafy greens sits in front of the counter, and a blue and white striped awning is above.
Blue Ribbon, a bakery and cafe in Marrakesh, is inspired by the bounty of ingredients grown on Sanctuary Slimane, a farm outside the city. Courtesy of Blue Ribbon

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

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When the Moroccan financier Aziz Nahas decided to buy and regenerate a farm outside Marrakesh about two decades ago, he underestimated how much would grow there. Now, the 10-acre plot produces organic vegetables and fruits as well as hosting an artist residency program and a ceramic studio, all under the name Sanctuary Slimane. In 2021, Nahas's friend the French restaurateur Benjamin Pastor suggested they partner up to start a cafe and farm shop in the busy Marrakesh neighborhood of Gueliz. Last spring, they opened the coffee shop Blue Ribbon, with offerings including fresh salads served with halloumi or beets and almonds and a bánh mí sandwich on fresh sourdough. In the fall, they added a seating area next door and the Slimane Farm Shop, which sells vegetables and products like honey and dried herbs that are grown and produced on the farm. Up next: Farmers, a restaurant headed by Blue Ribbon's chef and located in the same building. The 46-seat space, lined with colorful Popham tiles, is scheduled to open at the end of February. blueribbonmarrakech.com.

WEAR THIS

A Beribboned Ballet Flat From Brooklyn's Salter House

Left, two pairs of feet, one wearing pink ballet flats and the other wearing a black pair of the same shoes. Right, a pair of black ballet flats rest on the toes of a stone statue.
Pink and black moire bow flats designed by the Salter House co-founder Sandeep Salter in collaboration with Loeffler Randall. Courtesy of Salter House and Loeffler Randall

By Emilia Petrarca

Salter House, a home goods and clothing store-slash-cafe that opened on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn in 2018, is largely credited for bringing the French Plasticana gardening shoe to the streets of New York. Acolytes have been known to style the recycled-plastic-and-hemp slip-ons with the brand's "Picnic at Hanging Rock"-esque nightdresses and bloomers, inspired by a mix of Indian and English period styles. Now, the shop's co-founder Sandeep Salter is adding her own shoe design to the mix. This week, she released a collaboration with the New York-based footwear brand Loeffler Randall, adding her signature bows to its Leoni ballet flat. "I often wear ballet flats with my clothes because they're the right shape and tone," Salter explains, alluding to the soft, off-duty nature of the look. For inspiration, she turned to her favorite children's book, "The Twelve Dancing Princesses," specifically the hand-drawn ribbons throughout. "I like the way that fabric is rendered in this book," Salter says. "It's crinkly and disheveled and a little bit off, like it's just been scrunched up." Although the shoes coincide with a peak moment for bows, Salter has been drawing them for years. The flats, which have an elastic strap you can tuck in, currently come in ballet pink and black moire embroidered with Salter's illustrations. On the day we met, the designer was wearing loafers, patiently awaiting the arrival of her creation. "Then I'll wear them all day, every day," she says. $275, salter.house.

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GIFT THIS

Steak Knives From the San Francisco Restaurant Quince

Left, a hand holds a steak knife with a brass handle against a cracked yellow wall. Right, a pair of hands are in the process of constructing knives on a wood counter.
Left: one of the new steak knives for Quince restaurant, designed in collaboration with the California artisan Everett Noel. Right: Noel made the handles out of brass, which plays off the restaurant's renovated décor. Kian Berreman

Since its opening over two decades ago in San Francisco (first in the Pacific Heights neighborhood before moving to its current Jackson Square location), the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Quince has come to set the standard for fine dining in the city. But its owners, the chef Michael Tusk and his wife, Lindsay, aren't ones to coast on reputation. The couple — who also run the more casual Cotogna, next door — spent the majority of last year renovating Quince's interiors for its 20th anniversary, giving the space a brighter, lighter atmosphere, and commissioned new artwork that includes a large-scale botanical mural from the Parisian painter Galatée Martin. Another upgrade? A new set of custom steak knives with curved brass handles, designed in collaboration with the artisan knife-maker Everett Noel, who's based in the Sierra Foothills in rural Northern California. "Everett knew exactly what we were looking for," says Michael. "The handle plays off the brass elements of our tables and dining room, and the feel is wonderfully heavy." Brass, unlike wood, will also patina with age. Quince guests who wish to take the knives home with them need not resort to thievery: They're available to purchase, along with a larger chef's knife, also designed by Noel. $470 for a steak knife, $990 for a chef's knife; everettnoelknives.com.

SEE THIS

A Brian Buczak Retrospective Across Two New York Galleries

A figure is seen from behind, drawing on a white surface. The painting is done entirely in gray brushstrokes.
Brian Buczak's "Drawing the Universe" (1987). © Brian Buczak Estate. Courtesy of the Geoffrey Hendricks and Brian Buczak Estate. Photo: Timothy Doyon

By Jameson Montgomery

T Fashion Assistant

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In the mid-1970s and '80s, the Detroit-born artist Brian Buczak was among a group of New York-based conceptual artists whose work interrogated the symbols, language and systems of contemporary American life. In 1986, he was diagnosed with AIDS, and he died from related complications the following year at the age of 32. Now, his work has been assembled for "Man Looks at the World," a retrospective across two galleries and the artist's first solo show since 1989.

The exhibition occupies the two ninth-floor office suites just west of Union Square that make up Gordon Robichaux gallery. The first includes a series of Buczak's painted diptychs and triptychs from the early '80s, which combine allusive imagery like Buddhist flames, Communist stars and re-creations of canonical works like Caspar David Friedrich's 1818 painting "Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog." Such graphic and stylistically varied juxtapositions were likely informed by Buczak's work making commercial slide shows, which involved hours of cropping and editing varied imagery. At Tribeca's Ortuzar Projects, larger-scale canvases are on view from later in the artist's career, when spiritual and metaphysical themes entered into his work. In 1986's "Untitled (Winter Trees Triptych)," a mass of snow-blanketed branches are rendered in shades of pink, purple and teal that give the painting a sense of pulsing psychic energy. "Flags I," painted the same year, depicts a jumble of stars and stripes waving in the wind. A patriotic tribute at first glance, the flags feel more somber in the context of Buczak's exploration of his identity as a gay American at the height of the AIDS epidemic. Both galleries complement the artist's works with ephemera from throughout his career, including photographs, letters, stencils and designs for posters and fliers. The second suite at Gordon Robichaux plays a recording of the Kronos Quartet performing Philip Glass's 1989 piece "String Quartet No. 4," alternately titled "Buczak" in memory of the artist. "Man Looks at the World" is on view until Feb. 17, ortuzarprojects.com; gordonrobichaux.com.

TRY THIS

New Remedies for the Delicate Eye Area

Jars and tubes of beauty products are collaged on a light blue background.
Clockwise from left: Ranavat Brightening Retinol Eye Creme for Fine Lines & Dark Circles, $105, sephora.com; Glossier Full Orbit, $28, glossier.com; Current State Peptide + Caffeine Firming Eye Cream, $17, target.com; Ustawi 5-in-1 Eye Serum Perfector, $55, ustawi.com; EltaMD UV AOX Eye, $50, eltamd.com; BL+ Eye Cream, $60/ 5ml, skincare.bluelagoon.com Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

T Associate Market Editor

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After weeks of holiday festivities, taking special care of the delicate skin around your eyes is a worthy New Year's resolution. These new formulas, which promise to brighten your under-eye area, decrease its puffiness and guard it against environmental aggressors, can cover a multitude of sins. For daytime, EltaMD has launched a hydrating mineral SPF that protects against the premature aging caused by sun exposure. The formula is slightly tinted, so it helps hide dark circles at the same time. Much like a cup of coffee, using a cream that contains caffeine, like Current State's Firming Eye Cream, can help make eyes appear more awake. The cold metal applicator on Ustawi's lightweight 5-in-1 Eye Serum Perfector will do a similar job of perking up skin, while the antioxidant licorice root and vitamin C formula serves to reduce dark circles over time. To smooth out fine lines, the Icelandic skin care brand BL+ uses mineral-rich water sourced from the country's famous Blue Lagoon along with bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative that stimulates collagen production, in its Eye Cream. The Ayurvedic beauty brand Ranavat also uses bakuchiol in its Brightening Retinol Eye Creme, along with saffron, a spice derived from the crocus sativus flower, which helps reduce inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Full Orbit, the latest release from Glossier, includes hydrating hyaluronic acid and depuffing microalgae alongside Niacinamide, which helps soften lines over time.

COVET THIS

Loro Piana Showcases Its Latest Home Collection in Paris

Left, a brown chair and a gray-blue chair sit in front of a large stone fireplace. Right, a white blanket with blue stitching is on blue and white sheets with a striped pillowcase in the upper right corner.
Left: chairs upholstered in Loro Piana's new Hebrides fabric. Right: bedding including a blanket in double-sided Sherpas cashmere with punto cavallo stitching. 

By Jameson Montgomery

T Fashion Assistant

For this January's Paris Déco Off, the annual fair in which more than 150 showrooms across the French capital open their doors to share their latest wallpapers, home fabrics, trimmings and decorative art, the Italian textile and luxury goods producer Loro Piana will present its new interiors collection. Under the name "Impeccable Service," the house's offerings were developed with customization in mind. In addition to bespoke throws, blankets and cushions, the house's clientele can now choose from an array of made-to-measure categories including bedsheets, table settings and towels.

Loro Piana is known for its cashmere — combed from longhaired goats in the steppes of Mongolia and northern China — and this season's fabrics include Khanghai, a cashmere wool blend that comes in 10 natural tones, including a smoky tobacco and a soft ocean blue. Hebrides, the house's take on a classic Harris tweed, is rendered in pure cashmere with a herringbone pattern. Also new is a suite of outdoor fabrics that are made with recycled scraps, as well as Tusco, an upholstery that includes, in its first appearance at Loro Piana, hemp. The collection will be on view from January 17 to 21 at the brand's store and showroom on Rue de Furstemberg and by appointment at its temporary exhibition space on Rue des Saints Pères. loropiana.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A Japanese Holiday Feast, by Way of California

On a green ceramic cake stand, two wide mounds of mochi are stacked on top of each other with an orange fruit on top.
Philip Cheung

On New Year's Day, the Rintaro chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett and his mother, Toshiko Brackett, hosted family and friends for an intimate meal to start the year. Using carefully sourced ingredients, such as wasabi from Half Moon Bay and greens from a Japanese-owned farm in Watsonville, the two made a meal comprising a dozen dishes — a mix of Japanese New Year's staples and family favorites. It began with ozoni (a New Year's soup with pieces of toasted mochi in a dashi broth flavored with yuzu peel), followed by Santa Barbara spiny lobster, dashimaki tamago (a rolled egg omelet) and assembled platters of bigeye tuna sashimi. Also on the menu: Toshiko's sticky-sweet marmalade chicken, which she always prepares for the holiday. Read the full story — and get the recipe for the marmalade chicken — at tmagazine.com and follow us on Instagram.

And if you read one thing on tmagazine.com this week, make it:

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled an artist's given name; he is Jannis Varelas, not Jannie. The Jan. 3 newsletter referred incorrectly to Langkawi, Malaysia; it is an archipelago, not a coastal village. The article also misstated how voyagers on the Eastern & Oriental Express would travel to the island of Penang. They will take a train and then a private ferry transfer; the train will not go directly to the island. Finally, the article misstated which animals can be found in Taman Negara National Park; they are tigers, leopards and Asian elephants, not Sumatran rhinos.

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